Fashion

Rodarte - New York Spring/Summer 2010

Laura Mulleavy says that operative words for Rodarte’s S/S 10 collection are ‘mangled’ and ‘decay’. ‘Inspiration often comes from something seen in our environment’ that connects with an idea being developed with her sister Kate. Against a backdrop of devastating fires in northern California and inspiration also provided by the monumental Death Valley, Rodarte’s muse this season is an imaginary woman who has been burned alive. Post-immolation, she assumes shape-shifting powers and can transform into a condor, but in human form has to search a post-apocalypse landscape for rags in which to dress. Hence 'mangled' and 'decay'. Rodarte set out to breakdown the materials they used - scraps of cloth, pieces of leather and plastic, macramé; and crystals. The method is a continuation of the notion of found materials patched together they conceived last season; and their inspiration is a lateral connection between dystopian film imagery and their own environment. Following their notion; did Condor Woman find crystals amongst the rubble that she scavenged? Does she rejoice when that primitive urge for adornment is satisfied?

Rodarte used organically-shaped sew on CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements in this collection. ‘Crystals give depth to fabric, explains Laura Mulleavy. ‘They can also create colours that are broken by the facets, so you see the garment differently. Kate says that a dress isn’t finished without crystal, because it brings a dress to life.’ The show built to a finale of three avian-inspired black dresses plumed with feathers and decked with crystal.